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Category → Chemistry and Food

The Chemistry of Stadium Foods

Here at the ACS meeting in Boston, Newscripts was part of an elite group of reporters treated to a quick lesson in popcorn, ballpark hot dogs, and beer before a Red Sox game at Fenway Park. “The Chemistry of Stadium Food,” is part of an ongoing series of events on food chemistry at national meetings hosted by the ACS Office of Public Affairs.

Fenway Park and the Green Monster. Credit: Boston Visitors & Convention Bureau

The Boston event was held at Jerry Remy’s Sports Bar & Grill adjacent to the historic ballpark. Remy is the popular announcer for the Red Sox. The tutorial featured two leading food chemists: Sara J. Risch, founder of the food-consulting firm Science by Design, and Shirley Corriher, a cookbook author whose latest work is “Bakewise: The Hows and Whys of Successful Baking.” Risch and Corriher previously teamed up at the ACS meeting in Washington, D.C., to talk about the art of barbeque and at the meeting in San Francisco to talk about the sour in sourdough bread.

First up to bat in Boston, Risch gave a short warning about food safety in ballparks, given that a recent survey of ballparks found that most food-service vendors had poor health and safety ratings. Ballpark food service staffs tend to be minimum-wage workers or volunteers without training, Risch said. If the owners and managers of food kiosks aren’t diligent, there can be some public health issues with spoiled food—food could be undercooked, not properly refrigerated, or kept at an unsafe temperature for too long after it has been prepared.

For example, Risch says she would probably avoid sushi, oysters, or any raw foods in a ballpark—you can find just about anything on a ballpark menu these days, from iced coffee to hummus to veggie dogs. Fried foods are pretty safe, she noted, because they have been cooked at a high temperature, although the extra fat is a tradeoff. But you only live once. Continue reading →

Alcohol and Solvency

While the Newscripts gang has been known to indulge in a cocktail or two, we doubt that even our penchant for pricey vodka could rack up a liquor store bill in excess of $400,000. But not John Runowicz, NYU’s former chemistry department budget director. Or at least that’s what NYU thought he was spending at a local liquor store. Over the course of five years Runowicz submitted 13,000 receipts from the same liquor store to petty cash. He had pilfered $409,000 (that’s what I call solvent!) before his repeat receipts were spotted by a curious courier. Today, as the New York Daily News reports, he was sentenced to one to three years in prison.

So, chemistry students, any way your department could credibly spend over $80,000 a year on booze?

Speaking of drinking, we read an interesting article on alcohol proof this week in the Washington Post. Proof, as you may recall, is simply the percent of alcohol times two (math even an organic chemist can do). Since alcohol is such a good solvent for flavor compounds, proof has been on the rise in spirits in recent years so that bartenders can produce potent potables that pop with flavor. Even alcohol levels in wine have been creeping up to deliver a bigger burst of fruit flavor.

Chemist and absinthe enthusiast Ted Breaux even weighs in with an explanation of why the green fairy boasts such a high alcohol content–136 proof. “You have to bottle it at high proof because of the herbs. You want clarity, and if the proof isn’t high enough, the compounds will deteriorate. The spirit becomes hazy with sediment, and it looks awful,” he tells the Post.

Finally, in a tipple trifecta, a former Amgen chemist is distilling his own whiskey in the unlikely state of Utah, reports the Thousand Oaks Acorn. I got a good giggle out of this amended quote from chemist-turned-whiskey-maker David Perkins: “Making whiskey is a lot more fun than (pharmaceutical) drugs, as you get to taste the results as well as the in-between experiments.”

What’s in Your McNugget?

It’s no secret that McDonald’s sells different fast food products in different countries. For example, in Korea, you can get the Bulgogi Burger (pork patty in a bulgogi marinade) and a McBingSoo (Korean shaved ice) to wash it down; in El Salvador, French fries are made out of yuca rather than potatoes; and in Egypt, you can order the McFalafel sandwich and Egyptian cookies.

You may be surprised, however, to find out that even the same product sold in different countries can contain different ingredients. A recent article in CNN.com pointed out that Chicken McNuggets sold in the U.S. contain more calories and saturated fat than McNuggets in Great Britain. What’s more, American McNuggets also contain the preservative tertiary butylhydroquinone (tBHQ) and the anti-foaming agent dimethylpolysiloxane whereas British McNuggests do not.

In the article, Marion Nestle, a New York University professor and author of “What to eat,” recommended that readers avoid foods containing ingredients they can’t pronounce.

Is this really sound advice?

Sticky Rice: Shades of Shimmer

Sticky Rice Mango

Sticky Rice Mango

Remember Shimmer? The combination floor wax/dessert topping dreamed up by Saturday Night Live and made real by NYU chemistry professor  Kent Kirshenbaum and pastry chef Will Goldfarb? Well, it turns out that the ancient Chinese may have had their own wacky combination of home maintenance item/dessert staple–sticky rice.

A new paper in Accounts of Chemical Research reports that glutinous or sticky rice is a key component of the mortar in Nanjing’s 600-year-old city wall. Researchers led by Bingjian Zhang of China’s Zhejiang University detected the presence of amylopectin–a carbohydrate found in the rice–in chemical and instrumental analyses of the wall’s mortar. They believe that Chinese masons working as far back as 1,500 years ago combined slaked lime with sticky rice soup to make the mortar and they argue that the same brew is best for repairing ancient structures. They even test different lime-sticky rice soup recipes to see which is best.

Sadly, there’s no mention of sweet mango in the mix.

A Chemistry-Themed Book Launch

Credit: Jacqueline Jaeger Houtman

Credit: Jacqueline Jaeger Houtman

Credit: Jacqueline Jaeger Houtman

Credit: Jacqueline Jaeger Houtman

During the book launching party for Jacqueline Jaeger Houtman children’s book, “The Reinvention of Edison Thomas,” Houtman provided guests with cupcakes in the form of a periodic table.  But she took the nerdiness a few steps further than simply labeling cupcakes with elements. The sweets were flavored according to their chemical group; noble gases were lemon, lanthanides were chocolate mint, halogens were chocolate peanut butter, etc.

Houtman also made sure guests earned those extra calories, and required them to learn a little something about their element before chowing down.  For more information on Houtman’s book, visit her website.

Shimmer: Brought to You By the Power of Chemistry

Before the epic rise of the Snuggie, in a distant past where ShamWow and OxyClean were not even a glimmer in an at-home entrepreneur’s eye, there was Shimmer. It’s a floor wax! No, it’s a dessert topping! Wait, it’s a floor wax AND a dessert topping!

Okay, okay, Shimmer was never really existed—it was actually dreamed up for a Saturday Night Live skit in 1976. Until now, that is. This week, NYU chemistry professor Kent Kirshenbaum and pastry chef Will Goldfarb answered the pressing question: can chemistry and food come together to devise a material that is both a floor wax and a dessert topping? A packed audience at the Brooklyn-based Secret Science Club gleefully learned that, yes, Virginia, there is a product that can shine your linoleum and top off your parfait.

Goldfarb (left) and Kirshenbaum (right) break out the liquid nitrogen

Goldfarb (left) and Kirshenbaum (right) break out the liquid nitrogen

Kirshenbaum and Goldfarb’s presentation, though largely tongue-in-cheek, served an important purpose: to educate foodies and science geeks alike in the art of molecular gastronomy. We’ve written about their joint project, the Experimental Cuisine Collective, which brings together chefs and scientists to explore the intersection of science and cooking.

I have to confess, I expected the Secret Science Club talk to be your typical rundown of molecular gastronomy tricks: making ice cream with liquid nitrogen, creating fruit “caviar” using hydrocolloids, poaching the perfect egg. Boy was I wrong. Kirshenbaum and Goldfarb brought Shimmer to life, teaching the rapt audience a little bit about chemistry along the way.

Kirshenbaum explained that molecules with a hydrophilic head group and a hydrophobic tail assemble into spheres that capture oil and dirt inside. The goal was to find a molecule that possessed those hydrophilic/hydrophobic characteristics, but also tasted delicious. That molecule, unsurprisingly, turned out to be the saponin. By adding 4 grams of Chilean soap bark (more formally known as quillaja saponaria) to 100 grams of water (give or take), and setting a table-top mixer to work, the chemist and chef quickly had a thick foam that, in theory, tasted good too. Audience members were given a dollop atop a brownie, and Kirshenbaum sprayed a bit on a mop to demonstrate its cleaning properties. Impressively, they came up with a third use: Kirshenbaum bravely put the foam to work to work as a hair mousse. I wish I had better before and after pictures to closely examine its capabilities at taming Kirshenbaum’s moppish head.

So there you have it, folks. Though the wonders of chemistry, Shimmer really can exist. Feel free to try this experiment at home.

For your viewing pleasure: SNL’s Shimmer
Shimmer Floor Wax

Veggie Burgers…Made with Organic Chemicals

http://www.almostvegan.com/archives/images/bocaburgers.gifIn one of those odd moments when what chemists define as “organic” clashes with the rest of the world’s definition, I came across a report of a common organic chemical—hexane—in veggie burgers. The Wisconsin-based Cornucopia Institute just released a report about the use of hexane-extracted soy products in veggie burgers, and several blogs have picked up the story.

I can’t decide which headline about the study is more alarmist: Gothamist’s “Popular Veggie Burgers Contain Poisonous Chemicals” or Mother Jones’ “Which Veggie Burgers Were Made With a Neurotoxin?” The Village Voice’s “Enjoying that Veggie Burger? It May Contain Chemical Residues” just made me chuckle.

Anyhow, the chief complaint by Cornucopia is that the soy in many products has been washed in a hexane bath to extract fats. Hexane, Cornucopia notes, is bad for the environment and bad for you. Unless you’re eating soy products specifically labeled “organic” chances are you are eating hexane-extracted soy. And that goes for other soy-based foods and ingredients, such as soy baby formula and soy lecithin in chocolate.

Cornucopia didn’t actually see if any of those non-organic veggie burgers contained hexanes. They did test hexane-extracted soy oil, soy meal, and soy grits for the chemical and found soy oil contained less than 10 ppm of hexanes, while soy meal and soy grits had 21 pp and 14 ppm of the compound, respectively.

Although I’ve returned to the carnivore fold, I spent more than a dozen years as a vegetarian. I also spent five years as an organic chemistry graduate student, and I’d bet that I probably was exposed to more hexanes by running one column than I was through my cumulative consumption of Boca Burgers. But I am curious, anyone out there willing to test these burgers for hexane content?

UPDATE: Mother Jones has posted an update on their item about neurotoxin-laced veggie burgers in which they interview Charlotte Vallaeys, the author of the Cornucopia Institute’s report. Although Ms. Vallaeys holds an. M.S. in Agriculture, Food and Environment, I wish MJ had spoken to someone with a heftier chemistry background…and someone who wasn’t involved with the study.

When asked about the point that Chemjobber makes, Vallaeys responds: “The evaporation argument is often used by the companies that make these products. But what happens to the food when you cook it with this neurotoxic compound? Does it react with other substances and create new compounds before it evaporates? That really has not been studied.”

Vallaeys argues the bigger picture is that any product made with hexanes contributes to air pollution, but she seems to be a little confused about just what hexane is doing the atmosphere. In the report, she writes, “In the air, hexane reacts with other pollutants such as oxides of nitrogen to form ozone.”

How Grainy Is The Salt Picture?

Sodium chloride is in the spotlight at the New York Times once again this week. John Tierney’s column and blog post delve into what scientists really know about the effects of reducing salt in people’s diets.

It isn’t just an academic question. A movement to cut sodium intake in the population at large is afoot. It’s based on public health data that say lowering NaCl consumption in a population lowers blood pressure on average, and can thus reduce the risk of diseases such as stroke. And
it involves chemists, from those trying to determine how we taste salt to those working on making salt taste enhancers.
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